What It Takes to Be a MOF, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France

In the rainy evening gloom, a man’s loud sobs echoed off the glass and concrete surfaces outside the Lycée Hotelier du Touquet, in northern France. If you didn’t know better, you would have thought that this faceless sufferer, hidden away in an inner courtyard, had just endured a heartrending breakup or the death of a loved one, so complete and uninhibited was his anguish. But no, this was a chef who had just learned that despite months of training, sleepless nights, hundreds of…

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